Grocery Shopping in Mexico

I have learned that if you really want to experience the flavor of the culture of a particular country, go to the local grocery store or food market!  Not the stores found in resort areas, but where the residents go to do their shopping.  You are not always going to find what you set out to purchase, and in some cases you do, it’s just called something else!

There are a number of options in the area where I live.  Of course there are the American companies -- Walmart, Sam’s, and Costco.  In these mega-stores you can often find some of the items that you are accustomed to using at home, but there are still noticeable cultural differences. 

The first thing that I noticed was that the Mexicans here do not refrigerate their eggs!  That took some getting used to, but the eggs are really very good, so I adapted easily.

 

One of the more positive things I learned was that farmers do not use pesticides here, so the produce is very fresh.  In fact it’s so fresh you need to go a few times per week, else you run the risk of having to throw away the fruits and vegetables that go bad quickly.  Fortunately, in our community, there is a farmers market open twice a week where we can get fresh produce. 

This is just the rice! 

I know that supermarkets in the United States feature aisles upon aisles of processed foods; cereals, packages of quick side dishes, just about anything canned.  Not so here.  Instead, there are entire aisles of rice and beans.  I had no idea there were so many different varieties!!!  Not to mention the cheese and yogurt.  I would estimate 1/8^th of the store is taken up with “queso” and yogurt refrigerators. There are limited canned vegetables available but they are very expensive.  A good incentive to eat fresh! 

Speaking of fresh, the bakeries in the local markets here are pretty impressive in both size and assortment of products. This is my diet downfall.  I love fresh baked goods. The only troubling factor is that they are laid out in the open on shelves.  You are given a tray, much like a school cafeteria, on which you place your desired purchase(s). You then take it to the bakery attendant who will bag and price your items.  I have yet to find a set of tongs to use to pick said items up from the shelves.  You guessed it -- someone’s hands may have already been on that incredibly delicious chocolate donut I had been eyeing.  Not to mention the flies.   I do not purchase things from the bakery departments. 

It has taken me all of three months to finally get a sense of how our local grocery store, Chedraui, is laid out.  You can find just about anything in a grocery store; clothing, household goods, TVs, and appliances.  Further, you will find some cleaning products in one aisle, then others in a different one, and there is no methodology that I can think of that would explain this phenomenon.  There is no logic to the store layout. 

Mole

Another interesting food found in stores here that you will not necessarily find elsewhere are pots of multiple varieties of mole (pronounced “mo-lay”).   Mole is used for a number of sauces in Mexican cuisine.  The signature ingredient is a small quantity of dark chocolate.  This gives the sauce a rich quality and slightly bittersweet taste.  Not all mole sauces are the same. Families pass down their recipes through generations.  Mainly served with poultry, this can also be used on fish and vegetables. The sauce is very labor-intensive to make, so I’m sure those that use it are happy to find a good selection at the market.  I have to admit I haven’t mustered the courage to try it yet.   Maybe I’ll order it in a restaurant first. 

We have been able to purchase fresh fish directly from the docks here in our community, which has been a definite plus.  There is nothing like grilled fresh mahi mahi (what they call dorado) that was just caught the very same morning.  Chicken and pork are very popular, but buyer beware -- Where’s the beef?  We have not had much luck finding it.  It never dawned on me, having visited here for some time and then moving here, you do not see cattle farms.  All beef is imported either from elsewhere in Mexico, or most often Argentina.  Between the fresh produce, lack of available red meat, avoidance of baked goods, and lack of processed foods, we certainly are eating healthier than before. 

The other dilemma I found myself in was trying to find basic products (pantry staples).  I would have to look up the Spanish name for the products I was looking for to have on hand in the store.  You have no idea how many types of flour are available here.  Fortunately there are pictures on the side of the packages that show you what that particular flour is used for. 

You can find some products from the United States, but you will pay far more for them here.  For instance, I have always used Dow Scrubbing Bubbles to clean my bathrooms.  Everyone has a favorite and that’s mine.  I finally found some, randomly, at one of the markets here. At home I would pay around $3.00USD for a can of it, but here it was closer to $10.00USD.   I still bought it, because I really do love my Scrubbing Bubbles.  Next trip home, the suitcase will have a few cans in it!  Along with Domino brown sugar, McCormick’s vanilla, and Bumble Bee albacore tuna in water.  I cannot find those here, and the Mexican equivalents are just not working for me. 

While shopping, once you’ve been able to find what you want, the checkout experience begins.  I have yet to find an English-speaking check out clerk.  I am totally fine with this.  I believe that since I am in their country, I need to learn their language (and I am). I only mention it as something to keep in mind.  

Using charge cards in the grocery stores here is really a major undertaking, so we take pesos most of the time now.  Those very helpful baggers you find at the end of the checkout lane earn only the tips that you provide them, so be generous.  The same is true for gas station attendants here.  You are not allowed to pump your own gas, and those that pump it for you (and wash your windows), earn only tips.  But that is a story for another day and another blog. 

I’m sure many folks have had their own experiences with grocery shopping in another country.  Let me know if any of you have more to add about shopping in Mexico. 

Water, Water, Everywhere!

I was told if you dig deep enough anywhere in Riviera Maya, you will hit water.  I can see why as there are nearly 100 miles of beautiful white-sand beaches with brilliant turquoise colored water located just south of Cancun. This world-renowned paradise offers a multitude of opportunities for water sport enthusiasts. 

Scuba diving is a major pastime for visitors and residents alike in the region. Mayan Riviera's city of Playa del Carmen is known throughout the scuba diving community as a dive spot conducive to abundant wildlife, clear visibility and a strong network of dive shops. The city's dive shops offer rentals and initial certification, which can be accomplished in three to four days.

A ride up route 307, the main route going from Cancun to Tulum (and beyond), demonstrates the abundant locations for snorkeling as you will see signs depicting the sport all along the ride.  Of particular note is the Yal-Ku lagoon in Akumal.  Snorkeling there is like being in an aquarium.  The region boasts the world’s second largest coral reef, so there is no shortage of snorkeling opportunities here. 

What’s so great about summer here? Besides being off season with less visitors and lower prices, there are two very specific reasons to visit: turtle nesting and hatching, which can be experienced from May to October, including swims with the turtles, and whale shark viewing/swimming, which occurs mainly from July to September.

The largest fish on earth, whale sharks are not whales but rather sharks, though they live on plankton and are the only member of their unique genus. Their lifespans are about 70 years and they can reach more than 40 feet in length and 20 tons in weight. They are docile and swimming with them is a popular bucket list item for divers and snorkelers, which you can do in only a handful of places around the world, including the Riviera Maya.

Swimming with the graceful sea turtles is nothing to sneeze at either.  I must admit, the first time I did it, one of the turtles suddenly changed his direction and started heading straight towards me.  My first thought was, “do sea turtles have teeth?”  I have since learned they do not, they have beaks with bony ridges that help them break through tougher plant material.  Still not sure I want one to mistake me for seaweed.  

 If windsurfing and/or kite-surfing are something you enjoy, the Mayan Riviera boasts prime sailing conditions with a steady wind, a heavy surf break and shops that cater to these sports. Winds generally blow between 15 and 20 knots January and February and 12 to 18 the rest of the season.  Not a day goes by that I do not see someone on a kayak gingerly rowing up the lagoon behind our condo.  Kayaking and paddleboarding are both popular pastimes here. 

In the mood for adventure? You can take your pick of underground cenotes (pronounced “say no tays), take a day cruise on a chartered catamaran, or try your luck at deep-sea fishing. The list really goes on and on.

If none of the above sounds exciting to you, then just grab a drink by the pool, or park yourself under a palapa at the beach, and make that your adventure for the day.  This is a sport I frequently enjoy! 

Making The Move

Moving out of the country is not an easy undertaking – certainly not for sissies!  So many things to think about; visas, where to live, take the car or not, what furniture – if any – do we take?   An international move is not cheap, so you only want to bring those things you absolutely cannot live without.  For me, that included my AllClad cookware.  Don’t judge me.  

In Mexico, I had read and it has been my experience, that small electronic items are both hard to find, and very expensive here.   I’m glad I brought my KitchenAid Mixer and other small kitchen appliances.  Fortunately my electric rollers made the cut as well.  With the humidity here, my hair frizzes when I am just thinking about going outside.  I like to think that my rollers tame the mane.  Somewhat.   The same is true for cookware, cooking utensils, lamps, and linens.  Bring yours. 

The fees for moving internationally are partially based on weight, so really only bring what you think you will need.  Other charges you will want to take into consideration would be port fees and custom broker fees.  If you want your move to go smoothly, you MUST hire a custom broker.  You will not be allowed in the port to be with your “stuff” while it is inspected.  Your broker is key in getting your household items through successfully.  Many of the nightmare stories I read about were as a result of not having the representation of a customs broker.  That, and make a very detailed list of what you are moving, contents of each box, in both English and (in our case) Spanish. 

We sold all of our furniture so did not move any.  That was a good decision.  We have been able to find suitable replacements (plus, the condo we rented was mostly furnished).  Our style at home would not fit in this tropical environment anyway.  We still had 70 boxes of “stuff.”  Even after purging upon purging, we still brought too much.    

The decision about whether to bring an auto or not was easy for us.  The cost of shipping the vehicle and registering it in Mexico was, for us, very prohibitive.  Further, if you have a car note (loan), you will not be able to register it or keep it in the country.  For us, it was much easier to purchase a car here.  Clearly if you are able to drive the car across the border, it would be a difference scenario.  Driving from Washington, D.C., to the Riviera Maya was not an attractive option for us. 

Everyone commented that they felt we had a very smooth move compared to experiences other expats had.  It was all because of planning….and a stroke of luck I’m sure.  Good planning = good results; bad planning = bad results; I don’t think I need to tell you what happens when you do no planning!  Research.  Plan.  Research. Plan.  Then research more. 

Many ask; "Was it worth it?"  "Would you do it again?"  Yes, totally worth it, every time I look out the sliding glass doors and see that beautiful, peaceful, tropical scene.  And, not only would I do it again, but - as many others before me have claimed - I wish I had done it sooner!

My blogs thus far have been touching on part of the preparation and experience of moving out of the country.  Starting with my next post, I’m going to talk about our experiences here with every day life – finding and going to the doctors, grocery shopping (complete with pictures),  adjusting to the climate, and learning to snorkel!!! 

Adios! 

Where It All Began

One would imagine it best to start at the beginning if I am to fully share my “expat” experience.  How did a college-educated, professional woman who made it to the top of her field in Human Resources (I had earned that illustrious “seat at the table” that HR professionals strive for, until you get there that is) end up giving it all up to live the dream in paradise?  Not without sacrifice, lots of research, and most of all, lots of patience. 

My husband (John) and I love to travel to new places.  It is a hobby of ours. We had traveled to the Riviera Maya region several times and fell in love with it.  We had been working with a real estate development and investment company and have invested in property in the region, so we had been learning a lot through this relationship.  So, we started researching the region on the premise of buying a vacation condo, one that could be used for our future retirement home.

The bottom line is that we had the option of working for another 10 years until we were both eligible for “full retirement” from a financial benefit standpoint. We also came to the realization that after working all our lives we were not going to be able to afford to live comfortably in the lifestyle we had become accustomed to, particularly in the geographic region we were in at the time (Washington, DC, metropolitan area).  

At the time we were both stressed out from work and the pace of life where I spent two to four hours per day on the road commuting to a very stressful job and John was struggling with being underutilized in his job.  We also found, as a result of all this stress, that we were aging a little more quickly than we were comfortable with, and our bodies were beginning to show the “stress fractures” I’ll call them (the ever-multiplying gray hairs, tired and sore joints, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, always tired, and where in the world did all those wrinkles come from that were not here yesterday?). 

Faced with that for our future, or, the option of taking an early retirement, selling everything, getting totally out of debt, and moving to paradise; it was a fairly easy decision, and here we are!  Well, it is not that simple.  It is hard giving up the familiar.  As you can imagine, after more than 55 years of living in an area, being used to a certain lifestyle and faced with leaving our families, this was not an easy decision to make.  Yet, we knew that in order to enjoy our last few decades of life, we had to make a change.  The stress had to go.  As did a lot of the household items I had been hanging on to for years “just in case” I needed them one day.  As did the majority of the family heirlooms I had been hanging onto for my kids.  As did three-quarters of my super-sized walk-in closet full of clothes….and my beloved wall of shoes.  That was very painful.  VERY painful.  You really only need flip flops here.  Bottom line is, you do not want to pay to ship things that you will not need or that will rust.  This will be a topic for another article! 

This is probably a good time to point out that where we are living is not the “TexMex” version of Mexico many envision when they first hear the word “Mexico.”   If you look at a map of Mexico you will see that it is a huge country.  Where we are living is literally on a “peninsula” in the Caribbean!  We are half way between Playa del Carmen and Tulum, right on the coast.  Imagine living on St. Thomas or St. John in the Virgin Islands, only far more affordable (and the people definitely more friendly)!  In the entire region of the Yucatan Peninsula in 2012, there were only four deaths attributable to gun violence. Can you say the same for Baltimore, Washington, DC? Chicago?  Everyplace has it’s “ugly.”  It’s not perfect here, but I sure prefer the odds! 

So, after a year of "pondering" the possibilities, the decision was made.  We quit our jobs, sold three-quarters of our “stuff”, made living arrangements, bought health insurance, and we are here.  More on the details of that part of the journey in the next article! 

Stay tuned!